Tlacolula Market Visitors Guide + What To Eat

I loved this market because it’s an authentic place to experience local Mexican culture and far from a tourist trap! Sure, you’ll see some foreign travelers but the majority of visitors are locals coming to shop for fresh produce and eat tasty local dishes.

Vendors wear local clothing and sell traditional items used in Oaxaca long before the Spanish arrived. In fact, this is one of the oldest continuous markets in Mesoamerica, established by Zapotec and Mixtec peoples.

Today, locals will typically travel to Tlacolula from other towns in Oaxaca state to sell their goods – from fresh produce to woven rugs – at this vibrant tianguis (the local word for street market).

Sunday is market day in Tlacolula so don’t make the mistake of visiting another day!

Local bus

Both these and the colectivo taxis depart from the same place so I recommend hopping on whichever arrives first. The bus departs from this stop near Jalatlaco (pictured above) and the red and white shared taxis (pictured below) depart just a few steps away at the corner.

Look for a sign in the window saying Tlacolula de Matamoros or Mitla (which is further down the highway meaning they’ll pass Tlacolula).

Buses function like they do anywhere: wave one down and grab a seat. You may be asked to pay the driver but I find more commonly, someone will come around to collect money when the bus is moving. The ride costs 22 pesos each way as of 2023.

If there are a few of you, it may be cost-effective to get a regular taxi rather than a shared one. I was given a quote of 250 pesos (but you could try haggling a bit lower). Between four, that’s around 60 pesos each; not too much more than the 35 peso colectivo… And probably worth it to avoid being trapped in a stranger’s armpit!

Whatever mode of transport you take, you’ll be dropped on the highway by the gas station in Tlacolula. Start walking up the adjoining road and you’ll begin to see the outdoor market stands.

Not familiar with the word copal? It’s derived from the Nahuatl word copalli used by the Aztecs meaning scented smoke. Knowing this, you can probably guess that copal is a type of traditional Mexican incense.

Made from the sap of native Mexican trees and thought to have medicinal and spiritual benefits, copal has been used in daily life – including ceremonies – for centuries. If you’ve visited around the Day of the Dead, you’ll probably recognize the scent as it’s typically burned on ofrendas (alters dedicated to ancestors deceased).

You can buy copal (and devices to burn it in) cheaply in Tlacolula Market.

Alongside filigree earrings and woven rugs, the earthy clay pottery of Oaxaca is another staple of the state. Black clay comes exclusively from the pueblo of San Bartolo Coyotepec while red clay is typically from San Marcos Tlapazola, a rural Zapotec village.

There are bowls, pots, plates, and mezcal cups, but I particularly like the clay piggy banks!

It wouldn’t be a trip to Oaxaca without a little mezcal! This smoky spirit made from agave plants is slowly becoming famous around the world, but it began life in the fields of Oaxaca.

Should you be buying a bottle to take home, you’ll want something to drink it from. Mezcal cups come in many forms but these beautifully carved wooden ones make excellent souvenirs. They’re found all over Tlacolula Sunday Market.

When you first visit Mexico, you may wonder what on earth these multicolored mascots are. Some resemble animals you’ll recognize while others are a mashup of mythical beasts and curious creatures you can’t put a name to.

Well, they’re all types of alebrijes. Such images and statues are a popular type of Mexican folk art, gaining popularity since the 1940s. If you find yourself in the capital, one of my favorite Mexico City museums is Museo de Arte Popular near Centro, packed floor to ceiling with enormous examples.

Large, handpainted statues can be astronomically expensive while little mini ones can be as cheap as 70 pesos.

Without my own home in Oaxaca to brighten up, I had no need for fresh flowers but I loved seeing them regardless. During my late October visit, Tlacolula Market was bursting with girasols (sunflowers) and equally sunny cempasúchils (marigolds) thought to help guide home the souls of spirits during Dia de Muertos.

I adore Oaxaca cheese. The OG string cheese is salty, semi-soft, mild, and fresh. Whether you eat it by itself or melted on a quesadilla, it’s utterly moreish. At Tlacolula Mercado, you can buy balls of it to take home.

Oaxaca cheese – sometimes called quesillo – is always prepared and sold in this ball shape, and unraveled it would be meters long!

This cold drink served by street vendors is a Mexican favorite, drunk centuries ago by the Mayans. Pineapple, brown sugar, and cinnamon contribute to tepache’s flavor while its fermented nature gives it fizz and just a touch of alcohol.

If fermented beverages are your thing, buy a cup of pulque (more alcoholic) at Tlacolula Sunday Market. Fermented juice of the maguey plant can be drunk plain or with fruity flavors. I prefer the latter because it has an unusual sour yeast-like taste alone.

While the exact origin of tepache can’t be pinned down, it’s well known that tejate comes from Oaxaca. This corn-based drink made with roasted cacao beans and sweet mamey fruit could be considered prehispanic chocolate milk!

Finally, flor de cacao gives it a layer of froth on top. Find it all over Tlacolula Market and Oaxaca generally.

Barbacoa is a popular Mexican dish meaning barbeque in Spanish, but it’s more than that. Meat (usually lamb, mutton, or goat) is either cooked over an open flame in a fire pit or wrapped in maguey leaves and buried underground to let the flavor infuse.

The rich, meaty result is usually served in tacos or consume (soup). Since the preparation can take hours, it’s typically a food cooked for celebrations. There’s a popular stall on the walking street leading from the highway to the main market called Barbacoa Comedor Lety that you shouldn’t miss!

Since there’s a whole section of the mercado dedicated to fresh bread, it would be rude not to try some. during my visit around Day of the Dead, pan de muerto was readily available.

Typical pan de muertos in Mexico have a cross on the top and a light dusting of sugar. However, Oaxaca has its own regional version: a savory loaf with a colorful catholic saint inside. Thousands are made at the Tlacopan bakery in Tlacolula and delivered to Oaxaca City for the celebrations. Be sure to eat them here at the market, directly from the source!

However, there’s still delicious fresh bread outside of the Dia de Muertos season. Pan de cazuela translates as casserole bread and is made with chocolate, raisins, and a hint of cinnamon.

This final snackable food to try at Tlacolula Market may entice or repulse you. Chapulines are fried grasshoppers typically seasoned with lime, chili, and salt. Not everyone will like biting into their brittle bodies but, I have to say, they’re very snackable… A bit like popcorn!

This beautiful church sits beside Tlacolula de Matamoros market. Since it can be cramped and smoky in parts, the sunny square provides some respite. When on the way to Tlacolua, a Oaxaca local told me to visit Templo de Santa María de la Asunción and I can confirm it’s a peaceful, beautiful place with intricate carving and tiles on the top towers.

This is one of the most interesting parts of the market complex with a wide alley dedicated to carne asada (this is very smoky) leading to a couple of rows of bread stands. Just here, you’ll also find an altar and Jesus statue, typical of Mexican markets.

Within this inside market, you’ll also find a food court with several sit-down restaurants. I didn’t eat here myself but my friend vouched for Antojitos Mexicanas Dona Angelica serving tasty local dishes.

Getting around Tlacolula

Tlacolula is a small town that’s easy to explore on foot, however there are colorful tuk-tuks should you need a ride. Agree a price with a driver… They’re cheap!

Tuk-tuks service the Tlacolula area but don’t go further than the highway. From there, you’ll need a car, taxi, or bus to travel further afield (see my transport section above for how to get to Tlacolula Market from Oaxaca).

Is Tlacolula Market safe?

Yes, I visited alone and felt perfectly safe. Like any big, crowded market in the world, there are opportunities for pickpockets and, if you look like an obvious tourist, you’re likely to be first on their list. Wear a secure cross-body bag and properly zip away your wallet and phone after using them.

Stick to busy areas and be aware of your surroundings… You’ll be fine!

Tips for visiting

• Arrange a meeting spot if visiting with friends because it’s so hard to find anyone in the maze of the market.
• Leave your bank card at home – the market is cash only! Small bills are better, too, because vendors won’t always have change from a 500.
• There are toilets in the market that cost 5 pesos to use. They’re not the nicest but you get a wad of tissue paper for your 5 peso admission.
• Factor 2-3 hours to explore the market and its surroundings. I’d suggest visiting in the morning so you can work up an appetite and stop for lunch.
• Bring a cloth tote bag so you can sustainably transport home anything you buy. Another option is packing a reusable cup (I have a fold-down coffee cup) so you can try local drinks free from single-use plastics.