The charming neighborhood of Jalatlaco is one of my favorite places in Oaxaca. This peaceful barrio is all cobbled streets and colorful buildings with delightful coffee shops and craft stores thrown in.
Bustling Centro is home to the main attractions in Oaxaca while charming Xochimilco neighborhood is another favorite of mine with colorful street art and lovely cafes. One of the many good things about visiting Oaxaca is that it’s small enough to explore all these captivating areas on foot. Everything is close together, including Jalatlaco.
Read next: everything to do in Oaxaca
Things I love about Jalatlaco:
- All the cool coffee shops! It’s third-wave coffee heaven
- Idyllic colorful, low-rise buildings with pretty doorways and cute Beetle cars parked outside
- The street art! I’m always looking for street art wherever I go, and Jalatlaco did not disappoint
- Cute independent stores with not a chain in sight.
This blissful barrio has a long history, dating back to Zapotec origins when its name translated as ‘sand canyon’. Today, the traditional and modern blend with no bother. The colorful colonial casas are as eye-catching as they were a century ago, but there are now cool coffee shops and vegan restaurants in Jalatlaco that weren’t here five years ago.
I’m sure you can think of places that have lost their charm as they’ve modernized but Jalatlaco isn’t one of them. There are no chains here nor anything shiny or flashy. Even the newer businesses are independent and unusual, simply adding to the quirky charm of the barrio.
Where is Jalatlaco in Oaxaca?
Jalatlaco is located west of Oaxaca Centro, just 10 minutes away on foot. Conveniently, it borders the ADO bus station so if you choose to stay overnight in this area and arrive by bus, you don’t need to worry about carrying your bags far or paying for a taxi.
Getting to Jalatlaco
It’s easy to walk between Jalatlaco and Oaxaca Centro so no transport is required. To get there from Centro, you’ll pass El Llano Park which is a chill spot where you can often see local celebrations taking place.
But if it’s late or you’re feeling lazy, it’s easy to hail a yellow cab off the street. Uber is not available in Oaxaca but DiDi will sometimes pick up although there aren’t many drivers available. Local taxi is your best bet.
What to do in Jalatlaco
This pleasant barrio certainly isn’t full of big attractions but that’s half the charm! You can stay occupied with the following…
Stroll Calle Aldama
The main walking street in Jalatlaco is an ideal place to soak up the color and culture of this pretty part of town. In place of big attractions, there are cute cafes and bookstores to browse. Take yourself on an informal walking tour of Jalatlaco before settling somewhere for a coffee.
Admire Templo de San Matías
Templo de San Matías is an attractive church that sits at the heart of the pueblo. It replaces a hermitage that stood on this spot as far back as 1669. The church is surrounded by trees, some of which are over 300 years old. It’s a pleasant place to wander and observe local life.
Find the street art
One of the things I love the most about the Jalatlaco neighborhood of Oaxaca is the spectacular street art. Much of it is themed around Dia de Muertos which takes place annually from 31 October to 2 November. If you’re visiting for the festivities, the murals seem extra poignant and atmospheric.
But the Day of the Dead street art stays in Jalatlaco neighborhood year-round meaning you can experience it whenever you visit. There are also plenty of murals touching on other aspects of Mexican culture and daily life.
Some of my favorite murals include:
- The mural of local women dancing (pictured above) in typical Oaxacan dress with baskets and pineapples representing a typical folk dance from the city of Tuxtepec in Oaxaca state
- The mural of Sabina Sabe, mother of magic mushrooms, and a xoloitzcuintli dog (on this section of Aldama street)
- The blue and orange skeleton house on Miguel Hidalgo on the corner close to Aldama.
A few years ago over on my original travel blog, I wrote a guide to the Oaxaca street art so go check that out for exact locations and more murals.
Visit La Selva De Los Gatos (cat cafe)
Feline fans need to visit La Selva De Los Gatos, a fantastic cat cafe and vegan restaurant in Jalatlaco with very happy, pampered kitties who have plenty of space to roam around the yard and lounge in the sun. What a life!
When I visited, there was a variety of types of cats and some adorable kittens. There are lots of toys to entertain them with, and some of the more friendly ones will let you pet them and pick them up.
Although it’s worth visiting and buying a drink just to hang out with the cats, it’s actually a great vegan restaurant with very tasty food and a range of hot and cold drinks. I can vouch for the iced latte with oat milk.
In addition to paying for whatever you consume, you can also choose to leave a donation to the upkeep of the cat sanctuary on your way out. Any spare coins or small bills you have in your wallet will be well received.
Note – if you visit the capital, I know a few cat cafes in Mexico City you can visit (and plenty of vegan restaurants)!
Cafes and restaurants in Jalatlaco Oaxaca
Although there may be a lack of specific attractions in this barrio, there’s certainly not a shortage of places to eat in Jalatlaco. Here are a few of my favorites…
Santa Hiebra
This sunny yellow cafe initially lured me in with its huge range of baked goods stacked high in the counter. From croissants to fig tarts and an especially delicious guava and chai cruffin that I devoured in seconds, it has some of the best sweet treats in the whole city.
As well as fantastic coffee and baked goods, Santa Hierba does a great range of proper meals including scrumptious brunch dishes like my smoked salmon toast with cucumber and a healthy side salad. Pasta, bagels, and healthy bowls are also on the menu as well as a huge range of drinks from smoothies to herbal teas.
Boulenc
Boulenc is known for artisan bread, pastries, and brunch dishes. There are two in Oaxaca with the original in Centro being very popular and well known to the point that the line stretches around the corner at breakfast time. This newer venue in Jalatlaco is lesser-known meaning you can try the incredible bakery items without the wait. Hoorah!
The Jalataco cafe doesn’t have the full brunch menu of the main restaurant but they do interesting stuffed croissants (I want to try the kimchi one) and sandwiches with high-quality fillings. I had one as my packed lunch while hiking the incredible Pueblos Mancomunados region and it was delish!
The Boulenc coffee is also high quality, best enjoyed with a pastry (if you can ever choose) in the sunny courtyard.
La Teraza de Copal
For an affordable dinner in the Jalatlaco neighborhood, head to rooftop restaurant, La Teraza de Copal. The typical Oaxacan tlayudas (dishes made from fried and folded corn masa stuffed with ingredients of your choosing) are especially tasty.
My friend and I shared the chapulines and chorizo tlayudas but there are also sencillo (simple) ones with cheese, beans, and salad for vegetarians. They start from just 70 pesos each.
I can also vouch for the margaritas that were so good I had two… Not that I ever need a reason to have two margs, to be honest!
Las Chilmoleras
Las Chilmoleras is a cute, unassuming cafe with indoor and outdoor seating on the edge of Jalatlaco. The breakfast menu is enormous; I don’t think I’ve ever been so stuck on a decision in my life!
There are smoothies and bowls, hotcakes and waffles, a huge range of topped toasts, Oaxacan dishes cooked on the comal (iron griddle) like quesadillas and memelas, omelets, eggs bennys, chilaquiles, and sandwiches. I eventually settled on a smoked salmon omelet and green juice.
If Las Chilmoleras is busy, you could check out Jalatlaco Cafe a few doors down. My friend I went for breakfast here one morning and although we didn’t think the food was amazing, it’s a cute sunny cafe with your typical brekkie staples.
Pisa Pizza
Pisa Pizza is easily one of the best Italian restaurants in Jalatlaco and all of Oaxaca, boasting a spacious interior, atmospheric rooftop terrace, and – more importantly – fantastic woodfired pizza! There are lots of tasty toppings to choose from including prosciutto. Most pizzas cost 100-200 pesos.
Blason Cafe
Blason Coffee is one of the most popular brands in Mexico, sold in supermarkets all over the country. My roomie and I buy it for our coffee machine in Mexico City so we were excited to find a whole Blason Cafe in Oaxaca.
Blason coffee is packaged up according to region, for example Vera Cruz and Chiapas, however I’ve noticed that the Oaxaca variety is harder to find outside of the state. Since you’re in Oaxaca, it’s the perfect opportunity to sip some straight from the source and perhaps even buy a bag to take home.
This cafe has a couple of seats where you can perch and enjoy coffee and baked goods but it hasn’t much in the way of food.
Once in Oaxaca
Another of my favorite places in the Jalatlaco neighborhood of Oaxaca is Once in Oaxaca, an adorable art cafe in a building painted yellow and blue on the outside. Inside, it’s just as aesthetically pleasing with pretty rugs and shelves stacked with arty items for sale like paintings and stickers in the typical Oaxaca print style.
Outside, there are a few tables where you can enjoy specialty coffee and baked goods like banana bread. The perfect spot to shop and chill!
Dark Helado
Somewhere not to miss in Jalataco is Dark Heladeria. If you’re not familiar with this word yet, know that helado = ice cream so a ‘heladeria’ is an ice cream shop. As far as your Spanish learning journey goes, this is obviously top of the importance scale!
During my recent trip, the store was decked out with a huge skeleton like many of the buildings in Oaxaca. But the skeleton street art on the building is here year-round. I believe this particular mural commemorates those lost in the 2017 earthquake that shook Mexico.
Black Armadillo House
I’d heard good things about the food at Black Armadillo House but when my friend and I went, it was totally empty which obviously isn’t too atmospheric, so we ended up going elsewhere. Perhaps this was because everyone was out watching Dia de Muertos parades. Drop in because they have good reviews, particularly those mentioning the tlyaudas and guac.
A few other Jalatlaco coffee shops include ME Brew Bar, Mandala Mixology, and Cafe Finca El Olivo.
Where to shop in Jalatlaco
There are lots of cute independent stores in Jalatlaco selling lovely items. I recommend…
Espiritu Puro – this cute handicraft store on a quiet street caught my eye because of the photogenic set of wings painted outside. Inside is just as cute with clothes, hats, and Oaxacan pottery for sale.
Amate Books – I love this cute bookshop on Calle Aldama next to Coffee Shop The Pleasure. They have lots of Mexican books in English, both fiction and non-fiction. I got a book of short stories in dual text languages so you can compare and learn while reading.
Galería Shadai – an emporium piled high with artwork, statues, clothing, and other creative trinkets.
Armadillo Graffico – this is another favorite store of mine selling the print-style art that Oaxaca is famous for. If you’re not in the market for a large wall hanging, get a tiny one or even just a sticker for 30 pesos.
Oaxaca Magica – this bright pink store with a dog mural outside sells gorgeous items like painted alejibres, clay pottery, clothes, and treats like locally made salsa and honey.
Day of the Dead in Jalatlaco
Dia de Muertos is celebrated all over Mexico but Oaxaca is an especially famous place to experience the festivities. I love it so much I’ve been three times! The whole city comes to life with vibrant parades and ofrendas (altars). Visiting a local cemetery offers the chance to see locals honor their departed by decorating graves and spending the night there, as it’s believed human souls return for a night only.
Jalatlaco is lively during the festivities, especially since the permanent Day of the Dead street art sets the ultimate canvas. I marvelled at the copious amounts of papel picado hanging above the streets, with a skull-themed twist!
During the 2023 celebrations, a parade departed from Barrio de Jalatlaco on the night of 1 November, so be sure to check the schedules next year to see if it’s happening again.
How to spend half a day in Jalatlaco
- Breakfast at Las Chilmoleras or Santa Hierba
- Wander past Templo de San Matías
- Explore the cute shops and galleries
- Stop for a specialty coffee at Once in Oaxaca or Cafe Blason
- Wander the backstreets to find colourful murals
- Make friendly with the cats at La Selva De Los Gatos cat cafe (and tuck into a vegan lunch if you’re hungry).
FAQs
How do you pronounce Jalatlaco? The Spanish J is pronounced H so it’s said ‘hala-tlac-oh’.
How old is Jalatlaco? The neighborhood was founded in the 16th century making it one of the oldest barrios in Oaxaca, apart from Xochimilco.
Thanks for reading!
Read more Oaxaca City posts:
- What to do in Oaxaca City – the ultimate list
- Visiting Tlacolula Market Oaxaca
- Hiking in the Pueblos Mancomunados
Visiting the Oaxaca coast?
