The Condesa area of Mexico City is somewhere I know well after living here in late 2024. This relaxed neighborhood is beautiful, safe, and tranquil with wonderful architecture and plenty of green space. Life slows down here and you almost forget you’re in one of the world’s biggest and busiest cities.
One of the best things about Condesa is how walkable it is. Since the traffic (and pollution) is easily my least favorite thing about the capital, it’s refreshing to meander between the parks and coffee shops without dealing with traffic.
Some people will tell you Condesa has been gentrified and changed a lot in the past five years. They would be right… but it’s little wonder that so many people want to visit!
Where is La Condesa?
The three areas (La Condesa, Hipodromo, and Hipodromo Condesa) technically make up this area, but you won’t notice when walking around: they merge together with a similar, tranquil vibe.
On the other side of Avenue Veracruz and Parque Espana lies Roma Norte (Condesa’s cooler cousin), while Avenue Insurgentes Sur separates Condesa and Roma Sur.
Below Avenue Benjamin Franklin in the south, you have the relaxed neighborhood of Escandon. To the west beyond Cto Bicentenario, lies San Miguel de Chapultepec.
Getting to La Condesa
If you’re not staying here, it’s easy to reach from the other popular neighborhoods in CDMX like Centro, Roma, Juarez etc. Here’s how you can arrive:
Uber – as I sometimes hear reports of the pink and white taxis ripping off tourists, I suggest ordering your taxi via the Uber or Didi apps. Outside of rush hour when prices surge, it’s an affordable way to get around. For example, a 20-minute ride between Centro and Condesa should cost around 100 pesos.
Metro stops – you have Juanacatlan, Patriotismo, Chilpancingo, and Chapultepec dotted around the neighborhood’s exterior.
Metro bus stops – the Metrobus travels above ground down Avenue Insurgentes. Jump on and off at Sonora or Campeche stations beside La Condesa.
For the two above options, you need to buy a Metrocard at any Metro station and top it up. Journeys cost just 6 pesos.
Eco-bici – unlock bicycles using the app for a fun and affordable way to get around. A pass costs around 120 pesos a day, 250 pesos for 3 days, 400 pesos for 7 days, or 550 pesos for a year.
Facts about the Condesa neighborhood of Mexico City
- Condesa was modeled on Paris by Porfirio Díaz who was president for 35 years from 1876-1911
- There’s a circular, tree-lined walkway (the Hippodrome), that runs all the way through Condesa
- Here you’ll find the most Art Deco buildings in the world after Miami Beach
- The area is built in what was once a lake basin and, for this reason, suffers from violent earthquakes
- Calle Amsterdam was once the Jewish neighborhood and plenty of the mansions once had synagogues in the garden.
Things to do in La Condesa
For many travellers, this area will be the jumping-off point for exploring other parts of the capital like Centro Historico, Coyoacan, and Xochimilco.
You won’t find the big-name attractions here but you WILL find some pleasant places to explore. The lack of tangible things to ‘do’ means more time walking in the parks and sipping coffee at cute coffee shops. Win!
Walk in Parque México
One of the most pleasant green spaces in CDMX (apart from the wonderful Chapultepec Park, of course) is Parque Mexico in the heart of Condesa.
Designed in the early 20th century by architect José Luis Cuevas, also responsible for Parque Espana nearby, it’s a beautiful space with several statues… Including a random one of Einstein!
Some specific places to visit in Parque Mexico include:
- Audiorama – a quiet seating area where you can relax to calming music while swinging in a basket chair. There’s a recommendation to stay max 1 hour which is fair because it’s hard enough to bag an empty seat as it is!
- Fuente de los Cántaros – this statue of a woman carrying two jugs is a notable feature of the area with a pleasant plaza in front of it, often with coffee carts, pet pampering vans, and weekend markets
- Watch outdoor dance classes – or join one!
- Lago de los Patos – as the name suggests, a lake with ducks!
- Grab frozen yoghurt at Mygyo – grab a cup or cone of frozen Greek yoghurt with a huge range of toppings.
Parque Espana
Also worth a visit is the smaller Parque España, just a short walk from Parque Mexico. It’s another pretty, shaded green space to wander at your leisure, with locals and their dogs doing the same.
Walk the whole way around Amsterdam
Avenida Amsterdam is one of the most iconic streets in the city, looping in a circle shape with Parque Mexico and Plaza Popocapetl (a cute square with a water feature and restaurants – don’t miss Odette bakery!) in its center. At the south end, it connects to Plaza Citlaltepetl with another fountain and outdoor restaurants including Ojo de Agua, a great breakfast spot.
At any time of the day or night, you can expect to find Avenida Amsterdam busy with people walking, jogging, and dog walking. The best bit is that you can never get lost since it’s a complete circle!
Its other name is the Hipodrome or Hidpodromo translating as racetrack in Spanish. There’s nothing cryptic about the name: it used to be a horse racing track in the early 20th century.
Ride the tram
For a fun and touristic thing to do in Condesa, board the Tranvia Turistico AKA the red and yellow tram that trundles around popular neighborhoods of CDMX.
The Roma-Condesa route of the Tranvia Turistico costs 140 pesos per adult and takes around 45 minutes to see the sights, departing daily from 11am.
Spot Art Deco architecture
As I discovered during my first week in CDMX in 2019 (after a layover in Miami en route from the UK), the La Condesa neighborhood has the most Art Deco buildings in the world after Miami Beach.
Estimates predict there are around 275 Art Deco buildings in this small neighborhood. Examples include the Clock Tower in Parque Mexico, the water fountain in Plaza Popocapetl, and many of the houses along the Hipodromo.
Get cosy in Cafebreria El Pendulo
This iconic bookstore doubles up as one of my favorite cafes in Mexico City. They have several branches but none as lovely as the Condesa one. Enjoy coffee or a hearty Mexican meal among the shelves of books.
It’s suitable for socializing, reading alone, or co-working with a laptop. Although it’s not the cheapest, they offer good value lunch packages with three courses and a drink for around 280 pesos (the menu changes regularly).
Under the Volcano Books
Book lovers who enjoy Cafebreria El Pendulo should also visit to Under the Volcano near Plaza Popoocapetl. It’s a cozy corner with books in English and Spanish, open daily ’til 6pm. If the gate is closed, do what the sign suggests and shout ‘books!’ to get in.
Shops: boutiques and art
Although they’re pretty pricey, there are some lovely boutiques, stores and art galleries in Condesa. Don’t miss…
- Mooni – a beautiful art store (there’s also another one on Colima in Roma Norte).
- For All Folks – a lovely cosmetic store with face and body products suitable for sensitive skin, made with essential oils including calendula. The candles smell divine! The friendly owners can explain everything in Spanish and English.
- Proyecto Rufina Condesa – this clothing and homeware store is full of beautiful items that aren’t as expensive as you’d expect. I want my wardrobe and house (if I ever have one) to look exactly like this!
- Basicos de Mexico – unique and beautiful clothing, jewellery, and homeware with a Mexican focus.
Organic stores:
- Green Corner – a lovely organic supermarket and cafe with outdoor seating.
- Semilla Selecta – a refill store with everything you could need from olive oil to grains and dish soap (bring your own container).
- Estado Natural – another organic fill-up shop with delicacies including unusual vegetable chips, kombucha, and more.
Dog spotting
The dog park just across from the Fuente de los Cántaros statue where locals bring their dogs (including corgis, huskies, and other pedigrees) to play! Dog-watching is always fun.
Visit at the weekend for dog and cat adoptions. Although it’s a little heartbreaking, there are so many adorable animals brought by local shelters to makeshift pens in the park. Visitors have the option to adopt pets long-term or simply leave a donation.
Churros El Moro
A Mexico City must is sitting at the beautiful Art Deco branch of Churros El Moro in Condesa, dipping a churro in sweet chocolate (dipping sauce or drinking chocolate).
Although this churreria chain can be found in other neigborhoods, this is by far the nicest branch with views of the park. It’s often busy but tables clear quickly so wait around; it’s worth it!
Shop at the Tuesday & Sunday tianguis
Most of the famous CDMX markets are in other neighborhoods, however there are a couple of weekly fresh markets to pick up groceries, eat or simply browse.
- Tuesday market #1 – on the corner of Pachuca and Agustin Melgar with lots of fresh fruits and veggies
- Tuesday market #2 – a smaller market on Gral. Benjamín Hill with fresh produce and street food
- Friday market – on Campeche with fresh produce and delicious seafood tostadas ready to eat!
Where to eat in Condesa
For more of a deep dive, read my Condesa restaurant guide. Until then, here are a few highlights…
Restaurants for lunch and dinner
- La Capital – one of my favorite restaurants in the city serving upmarket Mexican cuisine with meat and vegetarian options. Everything is beautifully presented and we especially liked the tuna, cauliflower in black mole, and the chocolate volcano dessert.
- Esquina Comun – a speakeasy-style restaurant that requires advance booking via Instagram. Select the 6-course tasting menu between two to be delighted by aesthetically-pleasing Mexican fusion cuisine with a myriad of flavors. Expect to pay 1,000 pesos including a soft drink.
- Merkava – visit for some of the tastiest upmarket Middle Eastern cuisine you’ve ever tried. Highlights include the lamb, eggplant, and garlic hummus.
- Lardo – one of the most famous restaurants in the city known for its Mexican-European food and brunch dishes. Book in advance!
- Black Legend – quality seafood dishes like tuna tostadas, ceviche, and aguachiles join steaks and other meaty dishes, desserts, and decadent cocktails in this stylish, low-lit restaurant.
- Note – most of the vegan restaurants & street food stands are in Roma Norte but you’ll still find options at all the restaurants in Condesa.
Brunch and breakfast
- Maque – there are a few of these cafes known for their typical breakfast dishes and traditional outfits worn by the staff. The most atmospheric branch is this one by Parque Mexico. Visit early to bag a seat!
- Freims – a busy spot with excellent brunch dishes, especially the lemon ricotta pancakes.
- Chilpa – your one-stop for chilaquiles (for those living under a rock, that’s tortilla chips with salsa and other toppings). Mix and match to personalize your dish. It’s popular so go early or be prepared to queue.
- Hule – a relaxed spot serving some quality coffee, salmon bagels, and egg sandwiches.
- Superette – giant galletes (crepes) with endless topping choices.
- El Caimencito – quality Mexican breakfast dishes like chilaquiles (and authentic lunch dishes too). Portions are generous.
Read next: where to eat breakfast in Mexico City (all areas)
Tacos in Condesa
- El Califa – an ideal place to begin your taco adventures with authentic tacos served in pleasant surroundings. You can hit up the street carts later!
- El Pescadito – incredible fish tacos and a serve-yourself salad bar with all the toppings and salsas.
- El Greco – Arabic-style tacos (originally a dish from Puebla) made from al pastor meat, pita bread, avocado, and cheese.
- Don Juan – famous meaty tacos; be sure to order the suadero (pork) tacos with melted Oaxaca cheese.
- Tacos Hola El Güero – cheap ‘guisado’ (stew) tacos near the park with loads of veggie options.
- La Hortaliza – more guisado tacos featured on Netflix’s Taco Chronicles. This no-frills venue is worth a stop en route to Chapultepec Park.
Read next: the best tacos in Mexico City
Don’t miss – the famous chilaquiles torta (sandwich) from La Esquina del Chilaquil. With lines around the corner from opening time at 8am, visiting is undeniably a time investment… but one I highly recommend! They sell out by 11am. Read my complete review!
Coffee shops and bakeries
- Quentin – some of the best specialty coffee in the city with views of Avenida Amsterdam.
- Mama Carmela – their 5-star reviews on Google are deserved. Pay just 10 pesos extra for extravagant coffee art. I got a whole family of foam pigs on my flat white!
- Pan Para Todos – from croissants to roulettes, pair delicious coffee with quality pastry.
- Ficelle – a French bakery with decadent baked goods that warrant the high price tag.
- Borel – more specialty coffee and star-quality desserts.
- Tout Chocolat – sip coffee or drinking chocolate along with gourmet chocolates bought by the piece (25 pesos) or box. I love the passionfruit ganache.
- Saint – this list is getting long but I can’t forget this relaxed bakery with incredible sourdough and spicy hummus!
Read next: the best desserts in Mexico City
Where to go for drinks in Condesa
Although most of my favorite CDMX speakeasy bars are in Juarez neighborhood (and Roma Norte has the most cocktail bars generally), there are several great places to go out in Condesa. I suggest…
Baltra (cocktails) – mentioned on the World’s 50 Best list, Baltra is a Darwin-inspired bar named after one of the Galapagos Islands. Feel cozy surrounded by quirky clutter and peruse the creative, seasonal drinks menu. Booking is recommended.
Lagerbar Hercules – this cool bar is the place to be seen at the weekend with indoor and outdoor seating, European-style small plates, and a range of craft beers.
Deleted Souls (cocktails) – a cool, moody cocktail bar with a fantastic range of inventive cocktails, plus all your classics.
Gin Gin (cocktails) – there’s a small branch of this bar on Tamaulipas near Deleted Souls (cocktail crawl, anyone?) and a few others around the city. Gin cocktails are the specialty.
La Clandestina (mezcal) – a moody mezcal bar with Oaxacan snacks like tlayudas and chapulines.
Agrotaberna Monstrour de Agua (craft beers for a good cause) – I first tried these flavored beers at San Angel Saturday Market in the south of the city so I was happy when they came to Condesa. Proceeds go to the endangered axolotl found in the Xochimilco waterways.
Bijou Drinkery Room – for a memorable experience, get a custom cocktail created via a Rubix cube displaying different flavor profiles. Based on your preferences, the mixologists will work their magic.
Read next: 35+ best bars in Mexico City
Where to stay in La Condesa
Hostels
- Casa Pancha – a boutique hostel for remote workers and boujee budget travelers with superb reviews. Book from $30 a night.
- Hostal Roma-Condesa – a stylish boutique hostel with the feel of someone’s (lovely!) home and a garden area to relax. Book from $20 a night.
- Hostal Casa Fungi – a friendly hostel with a decor that’s somewhere between traditional Mexican and funky-modern (see the garden filled with colorful murals!) Private rooms and 4-bed dorms start from $25 a night.
Hotels
- BUDGET: Condesa House – private rooms in a stunning property with shared social areas. Book from $50 a night.
- MID-RANGE: Casa Nuevo Leon – beautiful, clean suites with 24-hour reception. Book from $100.
- MID-RANGE: Casa Decu – a stylish 4-star hotel with 24-hour reception and a range of rooms and suites. Book from $100.
- SPLASH-OUT: Hotel Dama – a design hotel from restaurant, terrace and bar. Book from $350.
Is Condesa safe?
Very! Probably safer than where you live at home if that’s a large city.
Of course, don’t go waving your valuables around at night. Things can happen here like anywhere. But generally speaking, you should have nothing to worry about in Condesa.
Walking around central areas like Avenida Amsterdam is safe at night, but generally I would err on the side of caution and catch Uber after 9pm or so.
Where next?
After Condesa, why not visit…
Chapultepec Park
- Explore the lake by swan-shaped pedallo
- Learn at the fantastic Anthropology Museum, easily my favourite museum in Mexico City
- Find the colorful Canadian totem pole
- Visit the funky Fuente de Tlaloc mosaic designed by Diego Riveria in Section II.
If walking to Chapultepec from Condesa, meander through the relaxed San Miguel de Chapultepec neighborhood en route. Although it’s mainly residential, there are several nice cafes and small galleries.
Roma Norte
- Browse art galleries like OMR, Casa Basalta, and MODO Object Museum
- Shop and taste samples at weekend markets on Colima
- Eat at amazing Roma Norte restaurants like Rosetta
- Shop and eat at Mercado Roma (hipster food market) and Mercado Medellin (authentic Colombian market)
- Catch a movie at Cine Tonala and enjoy cocktails at the rooftop bar
- Read more in my Roma Norte guide!
Centro Historico
- Visit the iconic Palacio de Belles Artes for the gallery, evening Folklore Ballet, and free Night of the Museum (last Weds of the month)
- See incredible art at Museo de Arte Popular (colorful folk art) and MUNAL (Mexican art)
- Wander leafy Alameda Central
- Stroll through Chinatown
- Visit the beautiful House of Tiles (Casa de Azul)
- Learn about the ancient Aztec empire at the Templo Mayor ruins
- Get pano views from the top of the Torre Latinoamericana (at the viewing deck or bar)
- Read more in my Centro Historico guide!
Thanks for reading!
