Atlixco, Puebla – What To Do in The City of Flowers

I recently took an overnight trip to the idyllic town of Atlixco in Puebla state. I timed my trip around the Valle de Catrinas event for Dia de Muertos but it’s a worthwhile place to visit year-round.

It was my third time in Puebla state having previously visited Puebla city and Cholula (see my complete visitor’s guide linked). Puebla city is undeniably grand and one of my favorite places in Mexico, especially thanks to Calle de Dulces (Sweet Street). However, I found discovering the indigenous culture in Cholula more interesting.

Having enjoyed both cities, I was excited to see a third destination in Puebla state. Atlixco may be the smallest of the three but it’s bursting with charm. Since it receives less international tourism than the other cities, it felt great to get off-the-beaten-path and see somewhere not every tourist does.

Not only is Atxlico a pueblo magico (‘magic town’ voted by the Secretary of Tourism due to its cultural richness) but it’s also nicknamed the ‘City of the Flowers’.

The name links to the growth and production of flowers that grow in the rich, nutrient-rich soil created by ash from nearby Popocatépetl volcano. The region’s warm, humid climate doesn’t hurt, either,

Surprisingly, though, I didn’t see that many flowers during my time in Atlixco, but perhaps this was because it was a dry year. Keep an eye out!

Aside from this, I have no complaints from my trip to Atxlico. It might be the prettiest pueblo magico I’ve visited and, after two years living in Mexico, that’s quite a long list now!

Where is Atlixco?

This city in Central Mexico is located 30km (approximately a 30-minute drive) from Puebla city. It’s located at the base of famous Popocatépetl volcano.

Fun fact, the town’s name in Nahuatl means ‘water in the valley’ referring to the mountainous valley the town lays in.

Getting to Atlixco

From Puebla city: from the main bus station (CAPU), there are regular departures in colectivos (small minibuses) with the ORO bus line, dropping at the bus station in Atlixco. Buses depart every 30 minutes and cost around 50 pesos ($2.70). The journey takes 30-45 minutes, traffic dependent.

From Mexico City: ADO and AU buses take 2.5 hours from CDMX’s TAPO station (Terminal de Autobuses de Pasajeros de Oriente) to Puebla’s CAPU station. Next, find the ORO counter with tickets to Atlixco.

Getting around Atlixco

It’s small enough that you can see everything on foot with ease!

However, there is a tourist tram that departs from the Zócalo if you wish to tour the town in a fun, scenic way. It also goes part of the way up Cerro de San Miguel (hill) which is handy for those who may struggle with the steep uphill walk.

The exceptions are Jardin Magico and Viveros de Atlixco (Plant Nurseries), both a 30-minute walk away. Call a taxi with Uber or Indrive.

Can you do a day trip from CDMX?

I would say no unless you get up VERY early and arrive back late. It’ll likely take you 30 minutes by Uber to reach TAPO station from wherever you’re staying, then after spending 2.5 hours on a bus, you still have a 30 minute bus ride to Atlixco and could potentially wait 30 minutes for the bus to depart.

Basically, the door-to-door journey could take 4 hours. Stay overnight if you can. I arrived at lunchtime on day 1 and departed mid-afternoon on day 2. I felt this was the perfect amount of time to see Atlixco.

Things to do in Atlixco, Puebla

There aren’t endless attractions in this small city but there’s plenty to keep you busy for a day. I recommend…

The main image I’d seen of Atlixco before visiting was this beautiful staircase painted with the image of a man and woman dancing.

Find La Escalera Ancha at the bottom of Cerro de San Miguel, the hill with the city’s main viewpoint at the top. If following Google maps, it sends you to the top of the staircase, but obviously you want to walk down to get the iconic view from the bottom.

At the top of the staircase, don’t miss the Floral Clock (Reloj Floral), exactly what it sounds like. It was made not far away in Zacatlán de las Manzanas, also in Puebla state. It’s not just a decoration: the hands move to tell the time.

Calzada 16 de Septiembre (street)

This is the street you’ll walk up to reach the colorful staircase from the city center. Aside from necessity, it’s worth a visit in its own right to see all the beautiful murals.

I absolutely LOVE street art! I’m in the right country because Mexican towns are full of it. Rather than grafitti, however, these are comissioned murals showing tradition and culture from the region.

The old Francisican Convent of Atlixco is one of the key features of the town, built by the Spanish when they founded the town in the 1500s.

Building started in 1538 and was completed in 1620, and it’s since survived centuries of political change and the 2017 earthquake, when it incurred substantial damage.

It was once inhabited in the Franciscans, a branch of the Catholic church, who had prominent monasteries in many areas of Mexico such as the San Angel area of CDMX and nearby town, Tepotzotlan. One of their key jobs was converting the locals to Christianity.

When I visited, the convent was closed so I couldn’t go inside. I had read online that other travellers had experienced the same thing, so I think this is often the case. However, it’s worth checking. You may be lucky!

Viveros de Atlixco (Plant Nurseries)

Given its nickname ‘the City of Flowers’, you can’t visit and skip Viveros de Atlixco, one of the main places to see flowers and plants.

As I mentioned, I didn’t see as many flowers around Atlixco as I’d expected given its name. If you also visit during the dry period, I recommend seeking them out by visiting a plant nursery; this is the main one.

This location is slightly outside of town, walking takes around 30 minutes or you can call an Uber or InDrive.

Easily the best thing to do in Atlixco when the sun sets is hike up the main hill for panoramic views over the city and surrounding countryside. Technically, you can visit whenever, but I imagine it gets hot in the middle of the day. Plus, who would want to miss sunset?

On a clear day, you’ll get a nice view of Popocatepetl, the active volcano that can often be seen smoking. Worth climbing 200 stairs? Absolutely.

At the top of the hill, you will find Capilla San Miguel Arcángel, a sunny yellow church. It’s often closed so you can only view it from the the outside, unfortunately.

Go in the late afternoon and there will be plenty of people making their way up at the same time. As a solo traveler, I began the return journey as soon as the sun went down to avoid walking alone in a quiet area after dark. Once you’re back in the city, it’s bustling and safe even to walk after dark.

Wander the Zócalo (city center)

The Zócalo is the central plaza of any Mexican city, usually bustling throughout the daytime and evening. Atlixco’s is no exception: it’s an atmospheric place to soak up the vibe of the city but with some quirks I’ve not seen elsewhere… the central building is a popular coffee chain covered in traditional tiles!

Letras Gigantes – I love to spot these giant letters found in most Mexican cities. I must have 100 photos in my collection by now!

Parroquia de Santa Maria de la Natividad – this is one of the town’s most beautiful churches in a pinky hue. It was badly damaged in the 2017 earthquake but is now resorted to its original glory.

The Italian Coffee Company Kiosko – the beautiful kiosk in the center of the Zocalo is covered in traditional Talavera tiles, a style made here in Puebla state (the best place to shop for them is in Puebla city).

Weirdly, inside the kiosk is a branch of the Italian Coffee Company, a popular Mexican chain. However, I believe it started here in Puebla which somewhat adds to the authenticity.

As a bit of a coffee snob, I don’t think their drinks are great so I chose somewhere else for my daily brew (keep reading for my coffee shop suggestions).

Palacio Municipals

Just meters from the coffee kiosk on the Zócalo is the Municipal Palace of Atlixco. A quick visit is really worth your time.

There’s no entry fee and it just takes 15 minutes to wander the interior of the building. The main thing to do is admire the detailed murals that tell tales of Atlixco’s past.

It reminded me of the National Palace and the Secretariat of Public Education in Mexico City’s Historic Center, both with walkways covered in murals (in their case, painted by Diego Rivera). These murals aren’t half as famous but they’re really beautiful, and incredibly informative.

Jardin Magico (Botanic Gardens)

Jardin Magico is a pretty venue in Atlixco that I highly recommend visiting if you have a spare hour. This botanical garden on the edge of the city is known for its beautiful topiary showing Mexican animals from hummingbirds to toucans and crocodiles.

The whole place was quiet and peaceful when I visited. It’s a beautiful place for a wander, away from the cars and bustle of the city.

It’s located close to the Valle de Catrinas field so you could combine the two if visiting during the Dia de Muertos celebrations.

Entry is 55 pesos ($2.70). It’s around a 35-minute walk from Atlixco but not on the best roads (no sidewalks) so I suggest hopping in an Uber for a couple of dollars each way.

Valle de Catrinas (October)

I specifically visited Atlixco for the La Catrinas event (although this gorgeous city is truly worth visiting regardless).

What to eat in Atlixco, Mexico

In my opinion, the state of Puebla is one of the best foodie destinations in Mexico. Dishes like chile en nogada and mole pobalo originate from Puebla city (well, depending who you talk to: Oaxaca also lay a claim to the invention of mole). You can find most of the dishes here in Atlixco, too.

Read next: typical Puebla dishes to try

Chalupas – found in Southern states of Mexico (also including Oaxaca, Hidalgo and Guerrero), these corn patties are topped with red or green salsa, chopped onions, and shredded meat. A portion of five makes a decent lunch.

Cemitas – sandwiches are called tortas in other parts of Mexico but not Puebla. Cemitas are a specific type usually with sesame seed bread, Oaxaca cheese, chipotle peppers, and papalo herb. Throw in some avocado and a milanesa (fried meat cutlet) and you’re basically guaranteed one of the best sandwiches of your life!

Paletas – these ice pops with real fruit inside (mine had guava) aren’t unique to Atlixco or even Puebla and can be found across Mexico. But they’re delicious so there’s no reason not to indulge, especially when there are plenty for sale around the Zócalo.

Puebla candies – although Puebla City’s Calle de Dulces is where you can try these in abundance, you’ll find them across the state. Camotes are sweet potatoes made even sweeter by soaking them in syrup.

Where to stay in Atlixco

Despite being a small place, there are lots of places to stay from boutique hotels to basic, family-run bed and breakfasts. Check out:

Cabañas La Finca – beautiful rooms on the edge of town with lots of greenery and a small swimming pool. Book from $50.

Hacienda Santo Cristo Hotel & Spa – treat youself by staying at the most beautiul hotel in town located inside an old hacienda (historic mansion) with spa and swimming pool. Book from $85.

Rinconada Cabrera – book a whole equipped apartment with roof terrace and beautiful views. Book from $60.